Bid for your chance to own this 1978 Mercedes-benz 450SL only on The MB Market. This example shows 112k miles and is finished in Astral Silver (735) over Black Leather (201). It's powered by the original 4.5L M117 V8 paired to a 3-speed auto. This SL comes with a matching hardtop and clean WV title.
Bid for your chance to own this 1983 Mercedes-Benz 300TD Wagon only on The MB Market! Finished in Light Ivory (154) over Palomino MB-Tex (154) and powered by a turbocharged 3.0-liter inline-five cylinder, this S123 includes thorough documentation, two keys, and a clean WV title.
83TDT said:
Reserve is off!
@mg69bob Bob, I won’t have access to that information for a few days, but I believe it was cp-7wa. Together with the speakers, and the wind blocker, it produced enough volume, and a clean sound for cruising around town with the top down.
I got this from chat gto: The 48-Hour WV State Police "One Trip Permit"The most practical method for a private sale is the One Trip Permit issued directly by the West Virginia State Police.What it does: It grants the buyer a 48-hour window to legally drive the unregistered vehicle from the point of purchase to their final destination (even if that destination is across state lines).Cost: $5.00 (must be paid in cash).Where to get it: The buyer must visit a local West Virginia State Police detachment office in person. Note: They should call the detachment ahead of time to ensure an officer is available to write the permit.What the Buyer Needs to Bring to the State PoliceTo be issued the 48-hour permit, your buyer must present:Proof of active auto insurance specifically covering the vehicle they are buying.Their valid driver's license.The signed-over vehicle title or a notarized Bill of Sale from you.Alternative: West Virginia DMV License ServicesIf the buyer prefers a standard temporary cardboard tag rather than a paper police permit, they can visit a physical West Virginia DMV regional office or a licensed WV DMV closing service agent. By bringing the signed title, bill of sale, and proof of insurance, they can purchase a temporary registration plate meant for transporting a vehicle out of state.A Quick Reminder for You (The Seller)Make sure you take your physical license plates off the car before the buyer drives away. In West Virginia, license plates belong to the driver, not the vehicle. Leaving them on the car makes you liable for any electronic toll violations, speeding cameras, or accidents the buyer might cause on their trip home.Are you or the buyer trying to calculate West Virginia road tolls for their route home, or do you need help locating the nearest WV State Police detachment?
@mg69bobTV Sorry I didn’t mean to overlook that question. It’s been a while, but I believe the WV state police still do a temp tag for out of state sake. Let look on their web site and see what I can find.
Thanks for that question. Yes, indeed: Fresh oil and filter, New tires, All fluids topped up, Including windshield squirters, Cooling, Transmission, Differential, and Power steering. Hard top installed. Ready to go. What else can you think of?
I have much better ways of demonstrating quality of repairs than receipts from places you have no experience with.
@Wdspurgeon Why are so interested in the receipts? Come look the car. The work I describe is easy to verify. On the other hand, nothing could be easier these days than to make fake paperwork. If you want to know what it would cost to buy one of the sub-$10k cars on the market, and bring it to this level. The answer is $20k to $30k. Who ever buys this car will be getting the car for free and a substantial discount on the work done..
Regarding receipts: Yes I have receipts. No I’m not going to post them.
Did it again R107!
I apologize for the typo: R1207, not R109. OOps.
Overall: This is a very nice, solid vehicle, with extensive, recent maintenance, ready to enjoy R109. Overall impressions: It has excellent mechanicals, body, paint, glass, tops, interior, instruments, lighting, climate control, and stereo. It drives, and presents like a several year-old car. That is to say: steering, acieration, shifting, braking, emission controls, climate control, windows, stereo, parking brake, locks., and maintenance. Not to say it’s perfect, but it is, overall, an extremely nice car. Interested buyers are welcome to inspect it in person. Short version of the history: (see below for more details) 1978 to 1981: 0 to 40k mi. - Used 14k mi. / yr. 1981 to 1992: 40k to 104k mi, - (Average: 5k mi. / yr.) 1992 to 2009: 104k to 112k mi. - Avg 500 mi. /yr. - Paint and interior redone. 2009 to 2025: - Stored, - (Less than 200 mi. total) 2025 to current: Mechanical systems maintenance brought up to date. In terms of rust: I have been under the car on a lift, stripped the interior, and trunk, removed the gas tank, removed the blower motor, and been under the dash. I did not see rot in the floors, trunk, rockers, wheel wells, or the bulkhead/firewall. Some minor surface rust here and there, but nothing close to the significant rot that can occur in these cars. I have also inspected the front lower a-arm mounting tabs, and can see no sign of cracking. It’s a very sound original car. All the sheet metal clearly looks to be original. History Details: I have owned this vehicle for more than a year. Based on documentation, an examination of the car, and conversations with people familiar with the history, I believe this is an accurate history of the car: It was built 9/29/77, and delivered 12/21/78, with these options: 755G: Silver top, 040G: Black bottom. 401: single seats, 416: Hard top, 441: cruse, 467: central locking, 491: US, 502: right side mirror, 518: Becker Mexico radio, 524: clear coat, 531: power antenna, 570: arm rest, 587: climate control and power windows, 592: insulated grass with heated rear window, 639: delete first aid kit and triangle, 640: Aluminum disk wheels, 740 black convertible top, 201: black interior (not sure if vinyl, or leather), 740: black top, and 808: ? It still has all of those parts, working as they should, with these exceptions: - Repainted (1992, and still looks fresh) - replaced interior with black vinyl (1992, like new condition, original floor mats are excellent under like new mats. Other carpet was replaced as well, including trunk), - blue top (1992, like new condition), - updated single DIN stereo: (2025) (touch screen blue tooth, with apple car play) with new speakers. - Mercedes brand draft stop (like new) no documentation regarding when it was installed. - Front chin spoiler added prior to repaint. (Original under bumper sheet metal, and plastic grill still there, and undamaged. - 4 wheels are 14” flat faced (apparently from the later W126 S-Class), the spare is a 14” bunt style. All 5 have new tires. 1978 -1981: It was purchased new in late 1978 of driven 40k mi in the first 3 years, service records in maintenance book. 1981 – 1992: I have no information for the next 12 years. 1992 -2010: Then in June of 1992, it was purchased by the previous owner (to me) at the local MB dealer with 104k mi. on the odometer. Very soon thereafter the new owner: - had it repainted in silver base coat, clear coat (most likely PPG Deltron). - installed a new interior, and top. The documentation that I have: - December of 1992 Title issued. - June of 1995: New disabled license plate issued, and new proof of insurance. - No documentation on when the tires had been replaced previous to 1992. o Date codes on tires were: 379, 379, 256, 216. (9/89, 9/89, 6/86. and 5/86). - June of 2009: o New regular license plate issued, o new proof of insurance. o State inspection sticker issued with 112,018 mi. on 6-25-09. 2025-26: It had been stored in a dry heated space with a cover over it for many years. I purchased it in April of 2025 with 112,173 mi., and have since done the following: Fuel supply: - Removed gas tank and cleaned - New screen in tank - New sending unit in tank - New Bosch fuel pump - New fuel pump mounts - New fuel filter - New fuel accumulator - New fuel lines connecting the above items. Fuel Injection: - Fuel distributor rebuilt with new outlet screens. - Fuel distributor tested, good even fuel distribution. - New fuel injectors (cleaned and tested prior to installation), all spray fine pattern. - WUR rebuilt, calibrated, and tested. - All vacuum connections as per factory diagram. Exhaust: - New high flow, EPA compliant Catalytic Converter (may not meet CA requirements) - New rear muffler - As a result of the slight difference of the cat internals, the exhaust is just a tick louder than stock, not load by any means, just a bit. Engine Air and EGR: - Cold start air valve rebuilt, and tested - Cold start fuel valve/injector also tested, passed. - Idle air valve threads cleaned, valve now has full travel. - New rubber hoses for idle air, and PCV (all of them) - New air cleaner filter, and gasket. - EGR valve tested, it works as it should - Intake manifold removed: - New set of 8 lower seals, and new intake to head gaskets. - Vacuum lines, and connectors in engine compartment renewed as needed. Cooling: - New water “by-pass hose” (it’s under the intake) - New large hose between intake and thermostat housing - New radiator hoses (upper and lower) - Coolant flush - All new belts (4) Brakes: - All calipers rebuilt with new o-rings, and dust seals - All new brake hoses. - All new brake fluid (Dot 4). - Brake pads have plenty of material remaining. (more than half) - New master cylinder - Brake booster replaced with good used on showing no signs of brake fluid having leaked in from master (very common problem) Steering: - New coupling unit installed. - System drained, and refilled - New filter - Steering box lash adjusted. - Ball joints, and all steering joints and idler arm checked for play, and torn boots, all tested good. - New steering dampener installed. Engine: - New valve cover gaskets - New timing chain - New cam sprockets - New upper chain guides (4) - New chain tensioner - Crank dampener mark confirmed as TDC No. 1. - Cam timing marks confirms to be +/- 1 deg of actual No. 1 TDC. - All cylinder’s compression tested at 170 psi +/- 2 psi. Ignition: - New Coil, and new coil wire installed - New: Rotor, cap, - Plug wires, and plug ends tested. - New ballast resistors - New non resistor plugs. Climate control: - Rebuilt climate control servo installed - Rebuilt climate control amplifier installed - Rebuilt aux water pump installed - New hoses as needed. - All new clamps - Rebuilt A/C compressor instaled, - System converted to R134a - New receiver dryer - New Expansion valve. - Temperature switch on accumulator replaced with relay driven by compressor run signal. So Aux fan runs when compressor runs, (or engine > 212 deg F.) - All vacuum pods tested, they function, and hold vacuum. - Evaporator temperature control switch calibrated. - tube for dash temperature sensor air sweep replaced. - Upper and lower gaskets replace on blower motor, and cover. - Evaporator coil cleaned on the outside, and flushed for conversation on the inside. - Condenser flushed for conversion. - Complete system has been tested, and works as it should Tires: - Date codes: were: 379,279,256,256 (I assume 1986, and 1989, as there were no receipts for a post 1992 purchase. ) - New tires now. Interior and accessories: - Inside of hard top re-died. - Stereo upgraded to single DIN unit with touch screen, and Apple Car Play. - Original antenna works as it should (with radio and dash switch) - New 2-way dash speakers, and rear shelf 3 driver surface mount speakers installed. o Stereo has enough volume that the music is clear while cruising with the top down. - Cleaned and lubricated seat tracks. - Installed new sun visors. - New windshield wipers - Instrument and controls light bulbs replaced as needed. - Clock capacitors replaced, mechanism cleaned and lubricated. - All lights, instruments, and warning systems are working, including the clock, cigar lighter, and the ash tray light. - Lock, and window mechanisms inside of doors were lubricated (see video). - New shift linkage bushings. Chassis: - Mounting tabs for front lower A-arms inspected, and show no cracking (see pics)
I will post a detailed description of the history that I have been able to put together. From that, and from talking to local folks that know. the history of the car, I'm sure the car was painted in 1992. In any case it was before 2009, as that is the date on the inspection sticker (see pictures of that and the recent odometer readings). In addition I have been in every nook and cranny. I'm am certain that all the body panels are original, never been recked or rusted. The repaint was done over the original paint, and not stripped to bare metal, so that is why you see a lot of thick paint areas. It is a very nice solid car. I am trying to present an accurate picture of the car as I can.
Also regarding pictures, don’t hesitate to ask why I toll any particular picture. Some of the pictures have a very specific reason, that may not be obvious. I have additional information on the history of the car if anyone is interested.
Regarding top color. That is the way it was when I purchased it. It was the personal preference of the owner. Also note it has a matching blue pin stripe. Regarding pictures: Thank you, happy to take requests, although hard top is currently on, so please keto they in mind. Having said that, I’m happy to take the top off, and put it a lift, someone wants to come and inspect it.
@W123S123 As anyone reading the comments in the listing will surely know by now. I really like facts. You can most likely guess what I don't like. Namely: anecdotal accounts, and untrue statements. Unfortunately this last comment has both. I'll keep it to the facts: 1. The sky isn't falling. 2. I have slot 147, (around 3pm) Thursday, in the Mecum Indianapolis Fall Auction on October 3, 2024. (less than 2 months).
Next stop, the real market Mecum Indy.
@Dutch2002 There is no doubt in my mind the actual mileage is what appears on the odometer. (a tick less than 109,500) There are quite a few details, and it can be confusing. I will recap: From the Purchase invoice that it was purchased new on 12/15/82. (Why that's not on the car fax, I don't know). Next are the various service records that are very consistent with mild use for 15 years until it was sold to the daughter (as per the executrix) in 1998 (as per car fax). These owners did not register it for use on the road for 15 years (2009, as per the car fax). So, it's quite unlikely many miles were put on it during that time. After that, there isn't much documentation: In 2010 we have an Ecklers receipt for some parts (the door lock diaphragm was indeed installed). Then in 2020 new tires, at 108,500. Previous from that we have a tire Kingdom receipt for new tires as “7027” mi. But thankfully a receipt one month later shows the milage to be 73,138 when the front end was checked. So, from there to the next tires in 2020, at 108,591 would be 35,453 mi. which makes sense. Finally, there is the condition the I purchased the car in. (See my comments below.) So, to sum up this car as been in the ownership of one family, it’s not been through dealers. I’m a retired Chemical Engineer that as Tyler Hoover would say, “Has a car problem.” That is to say I like to work on cars, especially ones that has such an incredible history, and condition of this one. As to why the car would have sat for 15 years, I can tell you that the estate also contained at least 6 other vehicles. One was a diesel pusher motor home from the late 90’s early 2000’s, with 33k mi., anther was a 1999 Cadillac with 2,500 mi. Yes 2,500. A low mileage dart from the 70’s, etc. So, it made perfect sense to me that this car was as you might say, unplanned?
I just noticed the picture of me holding the broken off part of the hood hinge maintenance position latch. That was laying in the place where the left (driver side) hood hinge goes when the hood is closed. Looks like someone forced the hood shut and broke it off. It's used to latch the hood in the maintenance position. The other side is used to get it into the maintenance position, and that works. This side (driver, left) is for locking it there. So long as there is not wind, like being inside, I've had no issues with the hood staying up in the maintenance position.
How do I rate the performance of the engine? I've not had one of these before, but, It feels like it has good power, and it sounds good doing it. The cruise control will easily maintain highway speeds on hills. There is a 0-60 and cruise control video. You can get an idea of the 0-60 time from the time elapsed in the video.. Also, there is the oil fill cap blow by video (you can see the cap rotating, due to the vibration, but it doesn't lift).
Is this car ready to run long distances? I would take this car across county tomorrow. I can literally not think of another thing that I would do before that. In fact, I would expect that it would not be a very eventful trip. Click and Clack of Car Talk have been asked that very question at least 3 times that I can recall. Either it was a mother / daughter, Father / Son, Husband / wife, whatever, They always gave the same answer: "Do nothing, let it break, it will be an adventure of a life time." That's why I say it's not likely to be a very adventurous trip.
Next question: Picture of completed D pillar repair? No, I do not. Sorry, but I can tell you a small patch was welded in, seam sealed, and painted. The is a picture before the welding. (It's has text in it the called it the "C" pillar).
I've been asked a few good questions. I will share the answers here: Given the gap in the history, how do I know the mileage is accurate? I spoke with the executrix of the estate. I was told that this was the owners mothers car. That's how they came to own it. I also know that they had at least 6 other vehicles, some had very low mileage (one was a 1999 Cadillac with 2,500 mi.). So the fact they did not register it for a license plate for many years made sense. Then there was the car it's self.: My Initial inspection: Initial check of fluids showed all fluids present and accounted for. The car started, shutoff, ran, stopped ok. By ran ok, I mean it would suffer fuel starvation on full or near full throttle (due to bad check valves in the lift pump), the SLS was not functioning, (low in the back, and very bouncy), the steering had a bit of play at near highway speeds, the A/C didn’t work, the seats didn’t want to adjust, the clock, and the tach didn’t work, and it had a significant exhaust leak. I tell you this so you can see how it was clear that this car had not been used much since the 2nd owner acquired it. As for the interior, it was a bit dirty, but no indication that it had been smoked in, also, no unusual smells, and no signs of mouse/rodent damage.
Regarding the wood. I've sent in 3 pictures to be added. One shows the wood in the console fairly accurately. The other 2 are of the ash tray, and the lighter. I took many many pictures under different lighting. I could make the wood look better, or worse. I wanted something accurate. It turns out that was hard for me to do. What I would say about it is, that the wood presents well, not perfect, but quite nice. None of the wood is delaminating, it all lays flat, and there is a consistent gloss, and depth of the clear coat., and the color and grains vary by an amount you would expect for wood. In the pictures you can nit pit some details, but they really don't show up in normal use. What is noticeable is on the main piece around the shifter, and the switches, the clear is starting to crack. I think I captured the essence of what is going on there. Again, It is possible to take pictures that make this look a lot worse, and ones' that don't show it at all. So I went with one that shows it about how you might notice it in real life.
@W123S123 I mounted them in the exact locations that they were in prior to me acquiring the car.. I did not want to make any new holes,, which I didn’t. I did need to trim the corner off the passenger side holder. It does not need to be open to operate the door handle. It is close. But doesn’t interfere. They are in different locations. I think this is due to glove box, head light switch etc.
@Daniel75 The bottom 2 are, (around the shifter, and the ash tray). The upper 2 were restored from the bare aluminum base plate. Zambino veneer was glued to furniture grade plywood , which was previously glued to the original base plates. Then stained, and polyurethaned.. I meant get more pictures of that area.,. Unfortunately I Won’t be able to do that until later on Sunday. (tomorrow). I will say the ash tray, nor the cigarette lighter show any signs of being used for smoking, or for much of anything, for that matter. That is to say that they’re in excellent condition.
@cebogs00 Ii don’t know about that. I think they all get like that eventually.
@cebogs00 You are correct. The 2 keys that came with the car are not MB brand. I ordered keys, and paid for them, at my local MB dealer, based on the VIN. 2 weeks later they called and said,, MB Classic stopped doing that:-(. They refunded my money. I purchased a lock cylinder with a VIN based key for the rear hatch. So I have a key for the hatch from MB, but it doesn’t match the VIN! On the bright side, I have been inside the hatch, and all the mechanisms are in perfect order, well lubricated, and absolutely no rust or corrosion to be seen!
I wanted to say something about the radio and tape deck. The tape deck works fine, the tape deck has new belts, and the rollers aha d even cleaned. All the buttons on the radio work, however the reception is a bit weak. You can here how the radio gets loader, , and clearer as the antenna goes up in the video.
I’ve mounted the cup holder in the holes that were there. Need to figure out how to add pictures.
Thinking of smells, regarding this car, that’s why I changed out the injectors. It wasn’t until I had the suspension , brakes, and SLS sorted out, that I stared to drive it a bit. I went into the garage one day, and smelled diesel fuel. That was the first time I smelled that, and not been working on bathe fuel system Turns out it’s a common problem. The fuel injectors are make of 2 half’s, (top and bottom), the joint is an interference tapered joint, and they weep after many years. Turns out 3 of them were seeping,. so, I went ahead and replaced all 5., as well as all the rubber fuel lines in the engine compartment. That fixed the odor. You do of course smell diesel exhaust if you back up, or are in a garage. With the motor running , but otherwise, as I said, no smells, not even diesel fuel.
@GregF I agree, some like the history that the patina portrays. Others like everything perfect. I like to focus on the functionality, and making what’s there as nice as possible, within reason.
Some, probably most, of you have noticed the holes, and indentations in the front door cards. These were from cup holders. Apparently MB sold these as an accessory. They were, broken, and missing parts. However, I have, received new ones that are exactly like the ones that were there, except there not broken. I didn’t want to say anything until I had them in my hands.. Now I do, and they are of excellent quality. I will post a picture once they are installed.
@GregF Thanks, that was my intention. I have bought a few cars sight unseen, and one was as expected the other had an Oder that was not disclosed. Who does that? So, yes it is as presented, not perfect, but very nice in all respects. No odors in this car!
Thinking about all of the typical issues that these cars have, it occurred to me, that I hand not taken pictures of the seats when they were out. However, I can tell you that I inspected the springs in the seats, and none were broken, or even repaired. Also, these have the round springs in the corners (which was a running change MB made).
I've been asked to elaborate on the damage sustained in 2020. I don't have any first hand information about that, as the owners had passed before I became interested in the car. However, the paint work seems to be older than that, and the report references the right rear corner. To me, the doors would be described as right side. However, when I went to look at the car for the first time, the right rear tail light was broken (see picture). This matches the description better. I'm assuming they reported it, collected the money, and never got around to fixing it. So I purchased a used tail light, and installed it. I also took pictures of the area behind the tail lights that show that area to be as it left the factory. Meaning, there is no sheet metal repair in that area, and the damage was limited to the plastic tail light. Back to the doors: Looks like there was a light scraping along that area. I say that because I've been inside the doors, and there is no signs of the sheet metal damage on the inside. So the damage must have been very minor. However there is a small dent in the passenger front door, which can be seen in the pictures. There are also 2 dents that are under the right rear bumper cover. The paint isn't cracked or even scratched in those 2 dents (see picture). So, was that part of the damage in the report? I just don't know. The only parts of all this that you actually notice, by walking around the car, is the small dent in the passenger front door. The other issues, you need to get down low, and look very closely to see that it's not perfect. Hope that helps. The remainder of the paint, and sheet metal is clearly original, and in great condition.
Feel free to ask questions, comment or send a message. I have a large amount of information to share. I didn't want to overwhelm anyone. I've made an effort to show any of the issues, and show any repairs, and all the maintenance , so there would be no disappointment after the sale. Bottom line, it is a really nice car.
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1978 Mercedes-benz 450SL
83TDT said:
Reserve is off!1978 Mercedes-benz 450SL
83TDT said:
@mg69bob Bob, I won’t have access to that information for a few days, but I believe it was cp-7wa. Together with the speakers, and the wind blocker, it produced enough volume, and a clean sound for cruising around town with the top down.1978 Mercedes-benz 450SL
83TDT said:
I got this from chat gto: The 48-Hour WV State Police "One Trip Permit"The most practical method for a private sale is the One Trip Permit issued directly by the West Virginia State Police.What it does: It grants the buyer a 48-hour window to legally drive the unregistered vehicle from the point of purchase to their final destination (even if that destination is across state lines).Cost: $5.00 (must be paid in cash).Where to get it: The buyer must visit a local West Virginia State Police detachment office in person. Note: They should call the detachment ahead of time to ensure an officer is available to write the permit.What the Buyer Needs to Bring to the State PoliceTo be issued the 48-hour permit, your buyer must present:Proof of active auto insurance specifically covering the vehicle they are buying.Their valid driver's license.The signed-over vehicle title or a notarized Bill of Sale from you.Alternative: West Virginia DMV License ServicesIf the buyer prefers a standard temporary cardboard tag rather than a paper police permit, they can visit a physical West Virginia DMV regional office or a licensed WV DMV closing service agent. By bringing the signed title, bill of sale, and proof of insurance, they can purchase a temporary registration plate meant for transporting a vehicle out of state.A Quick Reminder for You (The Seller)Make sure you take your physical license plates off the car before the buyer drives away. In West Virginia, license plates belong to the driver, not the vehicle. Leaving them on the car makes you liable for any electronic toll violations, speeding cameras, or accidents the buyer might cause on their trip home.Are you or the buyer trying to calculate West Virginia road tolls for their route home, or do you need help locating the nearest WV State Police detachment?1978 Mercedes-benz 450SL
83TDT said:
@mg69bobTV Sorry I didn’t mean to overlook that question. It’s been a while, but I believe the WV state police still do a temp tag for out of state sake. Let look on their web site and see what I can find.1978 Mercedes-benz 450SL
83TDT said:
Thanks for that question. Yes, indeed: Fresh oil and filter, New tires, All fluids topped up, Including windshield squirters, Cooling, Transmission, Differential, and Power steering. Hard top installed. Ready to go. What else can you think of?1978 Mercedes-benz 450SL
83TDT said:
I have much better ways of demonstrating quality of repairs than receipts from places you have no experience with.1978 Mercedes-benz 450SL
83TDT said:
@Wdspurgeon Why are so interested in the receipts? Come look the car. The work I describe is easy to verify. On the other hand, nothing could be easier these days than to make fake paperwork. If you want to know what it would cost to buy one of the sub-$10k cars on the market, and bring it to this level. The answer is $20k to $30k. Who ever buys this car will be getting the car for free and a substantial discount on the work done..1978 Mercedes-benz 450SL
83TDT said:
Regarding receipts: Yes I have receipts. No I’m not going to post them.1978 Mercedes-benz 450SL
83TDT said:
Did it again R107!1978 Mercedes-benz 450SL
83TDT said:
I apologize for the typo: R1207, not R109. OOps.1978 Mercedes-benz 450SL
83TDT said:
Overall: This is a very nice, solid vehicle, with extensive, recent maintenance, ready to enjoy R109. Overall impressions: It has excellent mechanicals, body, paint, glass, tops, interior, instruments, lighting, climate control, and stereo. It drives, and presents like a several year-old car. That is to say: steering, acieration, shifting, braking, emission controls, climate control, windows, stereo, parking brake, locks., and maintenance. Not to say it’s perfect, but it is, overall, an extremely nice car. Interested buyers are welcome to inspect it in person. Short version of the history: (see below for more details) 1978 to 1981: 0 to 40k mi. - Used 14k mi. / yr. 1981 to 1992: 40k to 104k mi, - (Average: 5k mi. / yr.) 1992 to 2009: 104k to 112k mi. - Avg 500 mi. /yr. - Paint and interior redone. 2009 to 2025: - Stored, - (Less than 200 mi. total) 2025 to current: Mechanical systems maintenance brought up to date. In terms of rust: I have been under the car on a lift, stripped the interior, and trunk, removed the gas tank, removed the blower motor, and been under the dash. I did not see rot in the floors, trunk, rockers, wheel wells, or the bulkhead/firewall. Some minor surface rust here and there, but nothing close to the significant rot that can occur in these cars. I have also inspected the front lower a-arm mounting tabs, and can see no sign of cracking. It’s a very sound original car. All the sheet metal clearly looks to be original. History Details: I have owned this vehicle for more than a year. Based on documentation, an examination of the car, and conversations with people familiar with the history, I believe this is an accurate history of the car: It was built 9/29/77, and delivered 12/21/78, with these options: 755G: Silver top, 040G: Black bottom. 401: single seats, 416: Hard top, 441: cruse, 467: central locking, 491: US, 502: right side mirror, 518: Becker Mexico radio, 524: clear coat, 531: power antenna, 570: arm rest, 587: climate control and power windows, 592: insulated grass with heated rear window, 639: delete first aid kit and triangle, 640: Aluminum disk wheels, 740 black convertible top, 201: black interior (not sure if vinyl, or leather), 740: black top, and 808: ? It still has all of those parts, working as they should, with these exceptions: - Repainted (1992, and still looks fresh) - replaced interior with black vinyl (1992, like new condition, original floor mats are excellent under like new mats. Other carpet was replaced as well, including trunk), - blue top (1992, like new condition), - updated single DIN stereo: (2025) (touch screen blue tooth, with apple car play) with new speakers. - Mercedes brand draft stop (like new) no documentation regarding when it was installed. - Front chin spoiler added prior to repaint. (Original under bumper sheet metal, and plastic grill still there, and undamaged. - 4 wheels are 14” flat faced (apparently from the later W126 S-Class), the spare is a 14” bunt style. All 5 have new tires. 1978 -1981: It was purchased new in late 1978 of driven 40k mi in the first 3 years, service records in maintenance book. 1981 – 1992: I have no information for the next 12 years. 1992 -2010: Then in June of 1992, it was purchased by the previous owner (to me) at the local MB dealer with 104k mi. on the odometer. Very soon thereafter the new owner: - had it repainted in silver base coat, clear coat (most likely PPG Deltron). - installed a new interior, and top. The documentation that I have: - December of 1992 Title issued. - June of 1995: New disabled license plate issued, and new proof of insurance. - No documentation on when the tires had been replaced previous to 1992. o Date codes on tires were: 379, 379, 256, 216. (9/89, 9/89, 6/86. and 5/86). - June of 2009: o New regular license plate issued, o new proof of insurance. o State inspection sticker issued with 112,018 mi. on 6-25-09. 2025-26: It had been stored in a dry heated space with a cover over it for many years. I purchased it in April of 2025 with 112,173 mi., and have since done the following: Fuel supply: - Removed gas tank and cleaned - New screen in tank - New sending unit in tank - New Bosch fuel pump - New fuel pump mounts - New fuel filter - New fuel accumulator - New fuel lines connecting the above items. Fuel Injection: - Fuel distributor rebuilt with new outlet screens. - Fuel distributor tested, good even fuel distribution. - New fuel injectors (cleaned and tested prior to installation), all spray fine pattern. - WUR rebuilt, calibrated, and tested. - All vacuum connections as per factory diagram. Exhaust: - New high flow, EPA compliant Catalytic Converter (may not meet CA requirements) - New rear muffler - As a result of the slight difference of the cat internals, the exhaust is just a tick louder than stock, not load by any means, just a bit. Engine Air and EGR: - Cold start air valve rebuilt, and tested - Cold start fuel valve/injector also tested, passed. - Idle air valve threads cleaned, valve now has full travel. - New rubber hoses for idle air, and PCV (all of them) - New air cleaner filter, and gasket. - EGR valve tested, it works as it should - Intake manifold removed: - New set of 8 lower seals, and new intake to head gaskets. - Vacuum lines, and connectors in engine compartment renewed as needed. Cooling: - New water “by-pass hose” (it’s under the intake) - New large hose between intake and thermostat housing - New radiator hoses (upper and lower) - Coolant flush - All new belts (4) Brakes: - All calipers rebuilt with new o-rings, and dust seals - All new brake hoses. - All new brake fluid (Dot 4). - Brake pads have plenty of material remaining. (more than half) - New master cylinder - Brake booster replaced with good used on showing no signs of brake fluid having leaked in from master (very common problem) Steering: - New coupling unit installed. - System drained, and refilled - New filter - Steering box lash adjusted. - Ball joints, and all steering joints and idler arm checked for play, and torn boots, all tested good. - New steering dampener installed. Engine: - New valve cover gaskets - New timing chain - New cam sprockets - New upper chain guides (4) - New chain tensioner - Crank dampener mark confirmed as TDC No. 1. - Cam timing marks confirms to be +/- 1 deg of actual No. 1 TDC. - All cylinder’s compression tested at 170 psi +/- 2 psi. Ignition: - New Coil, and new coil wire installed - New: Rotor, cap, - Plug wires, and plug ends tested. - New ballast resistors - New non resistor plugs. Climate control: - Rebuilt climate control servo installed - Rebuilt climate control amplifier installed - Rebuilt aux water pump installed - New hoses as needed. - All new clamps - Rebuilt A/C compressor instaled, - System converted to R134a - New receiver dryer - New Expansion valve. - Temperature switch on accumulator replaced with relay driven by compressor run signal. So Aux fan runs when compressor runs, (or engine > 212 deg F.) - All vacuum pods tested, they function, and hold vacuum. - Evaporator temperature control switch calibrated. - tube for dash temperature sensor air sweep replaced. - Upper and lower gaskets replace on blower motor, and cover. - Evaporator coil cleaned on the outside, and flushed for conversation on the inside. - Condenser flushed for conversion. - Complete system has been tested, and works as it should Tires: - Date codes: were: 379,279,256,256 (I assume 1986, and 1989, as there were no receipts for a post 1992 purchase. ) - New tires now. Interior and accessories: - Inside of hard top re-died. - Stereo upgraded to single DIN unit with touch screen, and Apple Car Play. - Original antenna works as it should (with radio and dash switch) - New 2-way dash speakers, and rear shelf 3 driver surface mount speakers installed. o Stereo has enough volume that the music is clear while cruising with the top down. - Cleaned and lubricated seat tracks. - Installed new sun visors. - New windshield wipers - Instrument and controls light bulbs replaced as needed. - Clock capacitors replaced, mechanism cleaned and lubricated. - All lights, instruments, and warning systems are working, including the clock, cigar lighter, and the ash tray light. - Lock, and window mechanisms inside of doors were lubricated (see video). - New shift linkage bushings. Chassis: - Mounting tabs for front lower A-arms inspected, and show no cracking (see pics)1978 Mercedes-benz 450SL
83TDT said:
I will post a detailed description of the history that I have been able to put together. From that, and from talking to local folks that know. the history of the car, I'm sure the car was painted in 1992. In any case it was before 2009, as that is the date on the inspection sticker (see pictures of that and the recent odometer readings). In addition I have been in every nook and cranny. I'm am certain that all the body panels are original, never been recked or rusted. The repaint was done over the original paint, and not stripped to bare metal, so that is why you see a lot of thick paint areas. It is a very nice solid car. I am trying to present an accurate picture of the car as I can.1978 Mercedes-benz 450SL
83TDT said:
Also regarding pictures, don’t hesitate to ask why I toll any particular picture. Some of the pictures have a very specific reason, that may not be obvious. I have additional information on the history of the car if anyone is interested.1978 Mercedes-benz 450SL
83TDT said:
Regarding top color. That is the way it was when I purchased it. It was the personal preference of the owner. Also note it has a matching blue pin stripe. Regarding pictures: Thank you, happy to take requests, although hard top is currently on, so please keto they in mind. Having said that, I’m happy to take the top off, and put it a lift, someone wants to come and inspect it.1983 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT Wagon
83TDT said:
@W123S123 As anyone reading the comments in the listing will surely know by now. I really like facts. You can most likely guess what I don't like. Namely: anecdotal accounts, and untrue statements. Unfortunately this last comment has both. I'll keep it to the facts: 1. The sky isn't falling. 2. I have slot 147, (around 3pm) Thursday, in the Mecum Indianapolis Fall Auction on October 3, 2024. (less than 2 months).1983 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT Wagon
83TDT said:
Next stop, the real market Mecum Indy.1983 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT Wagon
83TDT said:
@Dutch2002 There is no doubt in my mind the actual mileage is what appears on the odometer. (a tick less than 109,500) There are quite a few details, and it can be confusing. I will recap: From the Purchase invoice that it was purchased new on 12/15/82. (Why that's not on the car fax, I don't know). Next are the various service records that are very consistent with mild use for 15 years until it was sold to the daughter (as per the executrix) in 1998 (as per car fax). These owners did not register it for use on the road for 15 years (2009, as per the car fax). So, it's quite unlikely many miles were put on it during that time. After that, there isn't much documentation: In 2010 we have an Ecklers receipt for some parts (the door lock diaphragm was indeed installed). Then in 2020 new tires, at 108,500. Previous from that we have a tire Kingdom receipt for new tires as “7027” mi. But thankfully a receipt one month later shows the milage to be 73,138 when the front end was checked. So, from there to the next tires in 2020, at 108,591 would be 35,453 mi. which makes sense. Finally, there is the condition the I purchased the car in. (See my comments below.) So, to sum up this car as been in the ownership of one family, it’s not been through dealers. I’m a retired Chemical Engineer that as Tyler Hoover would say, “Has a car problem.” That is to say I like to work on cars, especially ones that has such an incredible history, and condition of this one. As to why the car would have sat for 15 years, I can tell you that the estate also contained at least 6 other vehicles. One was a diesel pusher motor home from the late 90’s early 2000’s, with 33k mi., anther was a 1999 Cadillac with 2,500 mi. Yes 2,500. A low mileage dart from the 70’s, etc. So, it made perfect sense to me that this car was as you might say, unplanned?1983 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT Wagon
83TDT said:
I just noticed the picture of me holding the broken off part of the hood hinge maintenance position latch. That was laying in the place where the left (driver side) hood hinge goes when the hood is closed. Looks like someone forced the hood shut and broke it off. It's used to latch the hood in the maintenance position. The other side is used to get it into the maintenance position, and that works. This side (driver, left) is for locking it there. So long as there is not wind, like being inside, I've had no issues with the hood staying up in the maintenance position.1983 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT Wagon
83TDT said:
How do I rate the performance of the engine? I've not had one of these before, but, It feels like it has good power, and it sounds good doing it. The cruise control will easily maintain highway speeds on hills. There is a 0-60 and cruise control video. You can get an idea of the 0-60 time from the time elapsed in the video.. Also, there is the oil fill cap blow by video (you can see the cap rotating, due to the vibration, but it doesn't lift).1983 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT Wagon
83TDT said:
Is this car ready to run long distances? I would take this car across county tomorrow. I can literally not think of another thing that I would do before that. In fact, I would expect that it would not be a very eventful trip. Click and Clack of Car Talk have been asked that very question at least 3 times that I can recall. Either it was a mother / daughter, Father / Son, Husband / wife, whatever, They always gave the same answer: "Do nothing, let it break, it will be an adventure of a life time." That's why I say it's not likely to be a very adventurous trip.1983 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT Wagon
83TDT said:
Next question: Picture of completed D pillar repair? No, I do not. Sorry, but I can tell you a small patch was welded in, seam sealed, and painted. The is a picture before the welding. (It's has text in it the called it the "C" pillar).1983 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT Wagon
83TDT said:
I've been asked a few good questions. I will share the answers here: Given the gap in the history, how do I know the mileage is accurate? I spoke with the executrix of the estate. I was told that this was the owners mothers car. That's how they came to own it. I also know that they had at least 6 other vehicles, some had very low mileage (one was a 1999 Cadillac with 2,500 mi.). So the fact they did not register it for a license plate for many years made sense. Then there was the car it's self.: My Initial inspection: Initial check of fluids showed all fluids present and accounted for. The car started, shutoff, ran, stopped ok. By ran ok, I mean it would suffer fuel starvation on full or near full throttle (due to bad check valves in the lift pump), the SLS was not functioning, (low in the back, and very bouncy), the steering had a bit of play at near highway speeds, the A/C didn’t work, the seats didn’t want to adjust, the clock, and the tach didn’t work, and it had a significant exhaust leak. I tell you this so you can see how it was clear that this car had not been used much since the 2nd owner acquired it. As for the interior, it was a bit dirty, but no indication that it had been smoked in, also, no unusual smells, and no signs of mouse/rodent damage.1983 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT Wagon
83TDT said:
Regarding the wood. I've sent in 3 pictures to be added. One shows the wood in the console fairly accurately. The other 2 are of the ash tray, and the lighter. I took many many pictures under different lighting. I could make the wood look better, or worse. I wanted something accurate. It turns out that was hard for me to do. What I would say about it is, that the wood presents well, not perfect, but quite nice. None of the wood is delaminating, it all lays flat, and there is a consistent gloss, and depth of the clear coat., and the color and grains vary by an amount you would expect for wood. In the pictures you can nit pit some details, but they really don't show up in normal use. What is noticeable is on the main piece around the shifter, and the switches, the clear is starting to crack. I think I captured the essence of what is going on there. Again, It is possible to take pictures that make this look a lot worse, and ones' that don't show it at all. So I went with one that shows it about how you might notice it in real life.1983 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT Wagon
83TDT said:
@W123S123 I mounted them in the exact locations that they were in prior to me acquiring the car.. I did not want to make any new holes,, which I didn’t. I did need to trim the corner off the passenger side holder. It does not need to be open to operate the door handle. It is close. But doesn’t interfere. They are in different locations. I think this is due to glove box, head light switch etc.1983 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT Wagon
83TDT said:
@Daniel75 The bottom 2 are, (around the shifter, and the ash tray). The upper 2 were restored from the bare aluminum base plate. Zambino veneer was glued to furniture grade plywood , which was previously glued to the original base plates. Then stained, and polyurethaned.. I meant get more pictures of that area.,. Unfortunately I Won’t be able to do that until later on Sunday. (tomorrow). I will say the ash tray, nor the cigarette lighter show any signs of being used for smoking, or for much of anything, for that matter. That is to say that they’re in excellent condition.1983 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT Wagon
83TDT said:
@cebogs00 Ii don’t know about that. I think they all get like that eventually.1983 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT Wagon
83TDT said:
@cebogs00 You are correct. The 2 keys that came with the car are not MB brand. I ordered keys, and paid for them, at my local MB dealer, based on the VIN. 2 weeks later they called and said,, MB Classic stopped doing that:-(. They refunded my money. I purchased a lock cylinder with a VIN based key for the rear hatch. So I have a key for the hatch from MB, but it doesn’t match the VIN! On the bright side, I have been inside the hatch, and all the mechanisms are in perfect order, well lubricated, and absolutely no rust or corrosion to be seen!1983 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT Wagon
83TDT said:
I wanted to say something about the radio and tape deck. The tape deck works fine, the tape deck has new belts, and the rollers aha d even cleaned. All the buttons on the radio work, however the reception is a bit weak. You can here how the radio gets loader, , and clearer as the antenna goes up in the video.1983 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT Wagon
83TDT said:
I’ve mounted the cup holder in the holes that were there. Need to figure out how to add pictures.1983 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT Wagon
83TDT said:
Thinking of smells, regarding this car, that’s why I changed out the injectors. It wasn’t until I had the suspension , brakes, and SLS sorted out, that I stared to drive it a bit. I went into the garage one day, and smelled diesel fuel. That was the first time I smelled that, and not been working on bathe fuel system Turns out it’s a common problem. The fuel injectors are make of 2 half’s, (top and bottom), the joint is an interference tapered joint, and they weep after many years. Turns out 3 of them were seeping,. so, I went ahead and replaced all 5., as well as all the rubber fuel lines in the engine compartment. That fixed the odor. You do of course smell diesel exhaust if you back up, or are in a garage. With the motor running , but otherwise, as I said, no smells, not even diesel fuel.1983 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT Wagon
83TDT said:
@GregF I agree, some like the history that the patina portrays. Others like everything perfect. I like to focus on the functionality, and making what’s there as nice as possible, within reason.1983 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT Wagon
83TDT said:
Some, probably most, of you have noticed the holes, and indentations in the front door cards. These were from cup holders. Apparently MB sold these as an accessory. They were, broken, and missing parts. However, I have, received new ones that are exactly like the ones that were there, except there not broken. I didn’t want to say anything until I had them in my hands.. Now I do, and they are of excellent quality. I will post a picture once they are installed.1983 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT Wagon
83TDT said:
@GregF Thanks, that was my intention. I have bought a few cars sight unseen, and one was as expected the other had an Oder that was not disclosed. Who does that? So, yes it is as presented, not perfect, but very nice in all respects. No odors in this car!1983 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT Wagon
83TDT said:
Thinking about all of the typical issues that these cars have, it occurred to me, that I hand not taken pictures of the seats when they were out. However, I can tell you that I inspected the springs in the seats, and none were broken, or even repaired. Also, these have the round springs in the corners (which was a running change MB made).1983 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT Wagon
83TDT said:
I've been asked to elaborate on the damage sustained in 2020. I don't have any first hand information about that, as the owners had passed before I became interested in the car. However, the paint work seems to be older than that, and the report references the right rear corner. To me, the doors would be described as right side. However, when I went to look at the car for the first time, the right rear tail light was broken (see picture). This matches the description better. I'm assuming they reported it, collected the money, and never got around to fixing it. So I purchased a used tail light, and installed it. I also took pictures of the area behind the tail lights that show that area to be as it left the factory. Meaning, there is no sheet metal repair in that area, and the damage was limited to the plastic tail light. Back to the doors: Looks like there was a light scraping along that area. I say that because I've been inside the doors, and there is no signs of the sheet metal damage on the inside. So the damage must have been very minor. However there is a small dent in the passenger front door, which can be seen in the pictures. There are also 2 dents that are under the right rear bumper cover. The paint isn't cracked or even scratched in those 2 dents (see picture). So, was that part of the damage in the report? I just don't know. The only parts of all this that you actually notice, by walking around the car, is the small dent in the passenger front door. The other issues, you need to get down low, and look very closely to see that it's not perfect. Hope that helps. The remainder of the paint, and sheet metal is clearly original, and in great condition.1983 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT Wagon
83TDT said:
Feel free to ask questions, comment or send a message. I have a large amount of information to share. I didn't want to overwhelm anyone. I've made an effort to show any of the issues, and show any repairs, and all the maintenance , so there would be no disappointment after the sale. Bottom line, it is a really nice car.